Swahili Time

I have still been busy, busy, busy since I arrived here. I absolutely love the people. The vast majority of our guests are very relaxed world travelers with awesome stories so it makes time spent with them not really seem like work.

I had the coolest dinner conversation with an Italian woman and a Masai (Tanzanian warrior tribe) man. He had been working as a beach boy in Zanzibar and apparently that is the most popular spot for Italian tourist in Tanzania, so they teach their employees Italian. She spoke I think 8 languages as well. And I only speak English and Swahili. So I would talk to her in English, she would talk to him in Italian and he would speak to me in Swahili. It was really cool. Swahili is also his second language, so he was actually the easiest person to talk Swahili to that I’ve met so far. He made me a pretty beaded bracelet.

Last Wednesday I had the day off and timing couldn’t have been more perfect. A father and daughter were leaving that day on the afternoon flight, but they had asked to leave earlier in the morning to get a tour of the island. I asked if I could hop in the car with them and thankfully they said yes! First we drove through the village of Makangale, which is about 1km from the resort. We continued through the village and turned left. We arrived at Vumawimbi Beach which is the whitest, most pristine beach I’d ever seen. There was absolutely no one around. In the left side of the cove there were all of these moored fishing ships, but then nothing in the water for about 300 yards. As soon as we got out of the car we were all squinting and trying to shield our faces. There have been times the sun was super kali (fierce) here, but this was unlike anything I’d ever felt before. I just thought my body was going to melt right there. Craig said one day I can try out his kite board there because there aren’t rocks and the low tide is much higher than our beach. Apparently Tanzanians go there on the weekends to relax, so there are daladalas that go that way. Good news for a meeting spot with the other PCVs! I think it is a 5km walk from the resort and generally people driving by offer rides-bicycle, pikipiki, ox cart, delivery truck, whatever. I’d almost forgotten that white people are incapable of walking…

Next we went to the Light House, which is at the most northern tip of Pemba. I couldn’t really hear the whole history because our driver was on the phone during the “history lesson” at the top, so everything was echoing. We did go all the way to the top (38 meters) and had a great view.

Then we went to Manta Reef Lodge. Swahili Divers is to the South, Kigomasha is in between, and Manta is the far North. It looks like about a mile walk on the beach. Manta is so beautiful and well kept. They have 16 rooms, all air conditioned, and it is all inclusive-breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks, one massage per day. Cheapest room is $490. The head Tanzanian manager is Mato’s uncle so he said he could give me a “resident rate”. Apparently our staff has good relations with the owners as well. So one day I may just walk down the beach and hang out there.

Next stop was the Ngezi Forest. It sounds kind of haunted when people say “once you go through the forest…” but it is actually just a smallish rainforest. We had a guided tour for about 45 minutes and he pointed out all the different trees and animals. The coolest thing was the Blood Tree, which looks like it is bleeding if you cut it. It also started raining while we were inside, but we didn’t get wet. We could hear the rain pounding down on the canopy, but only little drips would make it through.

We drove just a little further and we were at Justin and Shannon’s house. They have 3 girls- Hunter, almost 8; Braylen, almost 6; Avery, almost 4. They were so excited to show someone new their bunk beds and their drawings and Mommy and Daddy’s room. They have a TV, 2TB of movies and TV shows, an oven, fridge, and a TRAMPOLINE. We had grilled cheese sandwiches and Pringles for lunch. Apparently they go to Zanzibar with ice chests and empty suitcases to buy all this American food. After lunch I watched an episode of TV, jumped on the trampoline, was given American candy, and told I needed a pedicure. After the girls started the pedicure Justin asked if I wanted to go with him to their workshop. They rent a shop with 2 rooms. They teach English in one, computers in the other. Ginger was just finishing her English class when we got there so I went in to observe. They all freaked out that she didn’t introduce her friend. Then they found out I spoke better Swahili than Ginger and they told me this story about an incident that happened at Swahili Divers. The dogs had gotten out and eaten someone’s chickens so the manager had been taken to the police, but the students in Ginger’s class work for the police and they decided it was not a problem? Also, the magistrate went to the manager and demanded a bribe and so the manager took the magistrate to the police to report him? I think that’s what they were saying at least. Apparently a lot of the police are students at their workshop.

After class Ginger and I went on her pikipiki to check out the town. Umoja, the workshop is pretty close to the center of town. EVERYONE gave us weird looks because a) we’re white b) we’re young women c) we’re on a pikipiki d) a young white woman is driving a pikipiki e) I didn’t cover my hair. We got some gas and we greeted the man appropriately. Then these older men were standing behind us and started talking each other about if we knew Swahili or not. I turned around and Shikamoo-ed them and they all started laughing hysterically and then started talking to each other “wanajua, wanajua” (they know), but never actually acknowledged me directly. They we decided to check out the road on the way to Chake Chake. We drove for about 5 minutes before coming to a police checkpoint. Usually they just wave you on through as they open it, but for us they made us stop. I have NEVER seen any police check a driver’s license, but of course they asked for Ginger’s license. He was nice about it, but wasted our time. We continued a little and then returned to town and got juice and then wandered around the market.

When we got home Shannon had her “clinic” open for sick patients. I sat outside and observed for a while, which was a cool learning experience. Then we finished my pedicure and Ginger started dinner. We ate dinner and then watched Duck Dynasty. Ginger drove me home in the car and as we were driving we almost hit some guy who was sitting in the middle of the road! He was just hanging out and took his sweet time getting up. I arrived back to the lodge around 8pm, visited a little and then went to sleep early.

That was the main excitement for my week…

I did go snorkeling with a guest one day and ended up swimming through a field of jellyfish.

We had a romantic beach dinner for two guests and I babysat their one and a half year old kid.

The three girls came over to swim one day so I got in briefly and then we found a dead puffer fish on the beach.

Lisa, an RPCV who just COSed is staying here and I’m helping her through the paperwork of Peace Corps. She helped me review my resume and with my Description of Service, which I still need to submit to close things out with Peace Corps. It’s cool to be able to help each other through the process of ending PC, coming back to TZ, then returning again to the US again.

The dogs caught a bush baby one night.

I did a refresher course in the pool with another guest, so now I’m all set to go diving on days off.

I’m invited to Othman’s (kitchen crew) wedding. He is kind of like the village idiot (most likely autistic) so I’m really happy for him!

As I was trying to book a flight for guests, the guy just hung up on my and never called back. I don’t think that would work out so well in America.

I finally unpacked my suitcase yesterday because I don’t know when I’ll move into “my” bungalow.

Someone came from the government to tally how many people of which nationalities were here each day. Mato had just sat down to eat lunch so I decided to try to help this guy. I did it! I went through 2 months of the register with him.

These four older officials came from the Zanzibar Social Security Fund so I greeted them, sat them at a table with Mato and left. I was walking by while they were talking and they said they needed to talk to me too. They said it was some long-standing business issue, so I “wouldn’t understand”. I said “Ok, well thank you for discussing it with Mato” and started to walk away. Then one in particular just started harassing me that I needed to marry a Tanzanian. Two of the others joined in saying its better to marry a Mzungu for them and then I could stay here and have no problems in life. Then the instigator started saying “you need to give life to my babies” (literal translation). Ugh! After saying no multiple times and that I was already married they let up. By the way, Mato was just standing there laughing during all this. Then they decided they were finished so they said I was always welcome in their office and I needed to visit, blah, blah, blah. I was so happy when they left. First of all, why does it take four government officials to deliver one piece of paper two hours away from their office? And secondly, why do they think it’s okay to harass someone that they are doing business with?

It’s looking like I’ll be able to do my Advanced Open Water Certification on Friday and Saturday. Justin is going to do it too. Friday is my day off and we’re not very busy Saturday so hopefully I can just continue it then. Ginger and possibly Son will join us diving one or both of those days.